In recent months, a particular style of athletic shoes has experienced a significant resurgence in demand. A look at the material that is helping to make them popular again.
In the realm of footwear manufacturing, material selection plays a pivotal role in determining the quality, visual appeal, and market acceptance of the final product. Suede and nubuck, boasting similar visual characteristics, stand out as premium options that have experienced a resurgence in the athleisure market, especially through retro-inspired styles introduced by brands including adidas, New Balance, Nike and Puma. The enduring charm of suede and nubuck stems from an aesthetic and performance that are difficult to replicate. Unlike synthetic upper materials, these favourites offer a look and tactile sensation that is inherently distinctive. This individuality adds to their allure, making them sought-after choices for discerning consumers.
An introduction to suede
While many may associate suede with Elvis Presley’s rendition of ‘Blue Suede Shoes’, originally penned by Carl Perkins in 1955, the material’s roots lie in Europe. The term ‘suede’ originates from the French term ‘Gantes de Suède’, translating as gloves from Sweden, for which craftsmen had mastered a technique to create a velvety texture, known as ‘nap ’, on the reverse side, rather than the grain side, of gloving leather.
In modern manufacturing, bovine suede leather, distinct from nubuck, is often a co-product of the leather-making process. Typically, footwear upper materials like suede or grain leather are expected to be between 1.2 and 2.0 millimetres thick. However, most bovine leathers are heavier and require thickness correction during manufacturing to achieve a uniform grain leather. The excess material, known as the split, for which more detail is explained later, can then be repurposed to create suede by other manufacturers.
Through standard tannery processes, suede leather is crafted from the fibrous middle section of the leather, known technically as the corium, which exhibits a fibrous appearance on both sides. The desired aesthetic, whether a short or long nap, is achieved through a combination of process chemistry and physical processing.
In the case of suede, a rough nap is created through abrasive buffing with sandpaper. Contrastingly, nubuck is produced from grain leather, the upper part retaining the hair follicle pattern. Buffing the grain results in an exceptionally fine velvety nap, made possible by the unique fibre structure of the grain layer of the leather.
In the competitive realm of suede and nubuck, pigskin nubuck emerges as an intriguing option, esteemed for its luxurious texture. Positioned as a direct competitor to split suede, pigskin nubuck is touted by some manufacturers as offering a superior tactile experience, thereby enhancing the perceived value of footwear made from this material.
However, navigating challenges related to cultural and religious sensitivities underscores the importance of exercising awareness and sensitivity in its utilisation. This issue came to the forefront in 2023 when a leading brand had to recall certain products owing to the use of pigskin in its shoes, compounded by a lack of labelling to inform consumers.
Yield goals
Yield is a pivotal factor in the manufacturing process for any industry, and leather production is no exception. However, navigating the landscape of leather manufacturing can be perplexing. Raw materials (hides) are purchased by weight, undergo processing, and are then converted into materials sold, in most cases, by area. Therefore, it is in the manufacturer’s best interest to maximise yield through any available means.
When making suede, tanners use process chemistry and drying techniques tailored to optimise returns while producing a tight fibre suitable for the buffing process and achieving the desired nap. Although a soft leather with excellent yield may initially seem appealing because of its increased surface area, the open fibre structure it creates may not be the most conducive to quality suede.
In modern leather manufacturing and its associated supply chain, companies often prioritise yield in their claims. Chemical suppliers pledge yield increases, while machinery companies assure no loss of yield, or even yield gains. However, suede production deviates from this. To achieve the desired nap, some degree of yield loss is not only acceptable but sometimes necessary. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to experience upwards of a 15% shrinkage in area.
Grading challenges
For bovine suede and nubuck, grading poses different challenges and these materials require careful assessment to meet quality standards. The selection of premium hides is crucial, as the raw material’s inherent characteristics greatly impact the final product’s appearance and durability. Nubuck demands a clean grain, as minimal corrections can be made, leaving little room to conceal imperfections such as healed scars, insect bites or more problematic branding marks. This elevates the competition for raw materials, often overlapping with full grain leather productions.
In the case of suede leathers, where grain characteristics hold lesser if any, significance, the presence of veins becomes a major concern. Again, minimal correction or covering can be applied and in certain circumstances, the presence of veins within the corium structure may not be visible until after thickness alteration. For these reasons, the relationship between the tannery and the supplier is paramount.
Since most suede is derived from splits, its supply is closely tied to fluctuations in the grain leather market. As demand for grain leather varies, the split market encounters challenges in maintaining a consistent supply, highlighting the delicate balance required to sustain an uninterrupted supply chain for bovine suede. Many prefer US-sourced material owing to its consistent quality and price stability, though alternative sources exist. These alternatives often struggle to compete on price, reinforcing the dominance of US-sourced material in the market.
Clyde Leather in Scotland is one of the companies supplying suede to top athleisure footwear companies. Managing director, Richard Harris, has told World Footwear that the biggest and most important issue with suede sourcing now is competition from collagen and gelatine buyers. These buyers pay a premium and purchase the largest volume of split material. He emphasises the need for high-quality raw materials and good tannage to produce consistent suede, noting the technical challenges of maintaining consistent quality when using different sources of raw material and varying splitting techniques.
Regarding suede splits, there exists a notable global price disparity in terms of quality and availability. Despite the impact of covid-19, prices for decent suede material have remained relatively stable, experiencing a slight uptick in the early part of 2024 because of increased demand from Asian split tanneries. Industry commentators say this price trend is primarily driven by limited supply rather than by excessive demand, with much of the material, globally, being held in full substance until grain orders are received.
Wet blue splits are categorised into two main types: split in the wet blue and split in the lime. Split in the wet blue is preferred for light- to mid-weight suedes, often marketed as drop splits, with top-quality prices currently ranging from $1.40 to $1.50 per kilo.
Retro resurgence
On the other hand, split in the lime refers to heavier material, typically used in automotive applications. Prices for this type of split vary significantly. Northern European material without branding marks or holes, suitable for heavy suedes and leathergoods, can command prices as high as $2.90 to $3.00 per kilo. Argentinean or Uruguayan material, with holes and brands, falls within the price range of $1.80 to $2.10 per kilo.
Sportswear brands are using retro designs from past decades, tapping into nostalgia that older consumers feel for classic styles. Simultaneously, these designs are captivating younger generations who are encountering them for the first time. The revival or reimagining of older styles is viewed as a reliable strategy for expanding market presence, similar to the trend among filmmakers of rebooting beloved classics.
Nike, adidas, Puma, and New Balance are among the footwear brands at the forefront of the retro revival, putting suede in the limelight once more, often replacing synthetic alternatives that previously replaced leather.
Puma made history with the introduction of the Puma Suede shoe in 1968. Initially it was known as the Puma Crack, drawing inspiration from a term for a highly skilled individual. This marked the commercial debut of suede sneakers. Other companies were experimenting with suede as an upper material for athletic shoes around the same era, but Puma’s unveiling of the Suede Classic remains a seminal moment in sneaker history.
Adidas has contributed to this trend with the introduction of its Gazelle shoe, crafted from kangaroo velour, a type of reverse suede using the flesh side of kangaroo leather. Similarly, Nike left an indelible mark with the Nike Blazer in 1973, featuring suede uppers.
The material’s softer, more luxurious texture compared to conventional materials like canvas or grain leather, gives the shoes a stylish and upscale aesthetic. Robustness and flexibility further enhance its appeal. Since suede lacks a grain layer to scuff, any scratches on the material often go unnoticed and can be easily removed with sandpaper if necessary. Its high level of breathability, the result of its uncoated surface, makes it ideal for athletic pursuits, a concept that predates the emergence of ‘athleisure’.
Celebrity status
Initially favoured by sports enthusiasts for their performance and the athletes who endorsed them, these shoes have gained widespread appeal in recent times. Good sustainability credentials, strategic collaborations and social media influence have all played crucial roles in this renewed interest. Additionally, the rapid introduction of fashionable colour variations has further propelled their popularity.
Celebrity preference, as opposed to direct collaborations, has played a significant role. Singer Harry Styles’ preference for the adidas Gazelle has notably boosted sales of the shoe. During a recent tour, he wore various pairs of the special-edition re:sui including personalised black pairs worn by him and his band.
Retro meets innovation with the recent Puma Re:Suede, crafted from Zeology-tanned suede – a leather that can be composted after use.
CREDIT: PUMA
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